Coming out of turn 6, the Corvette C6R of GM Racing is overtaken by the LMP2 Acura ARX-01b of De Farran Motorsports. The Corvette would later run into mechanical trouble and finish several laps behind their #3 Corvette teammates.

This past weekend, I attended the 11th annual Petit Le Mans at Road Atlanta. This was the penultimate race of the American Le Mans (ALMS) season and the season’s second endurance race, clocking in at 10 hours (or 1,000 miles). While I am a Formula One fan at heart, ALMS is great for the looser atmosphere and greater public access to pit lanes, garages drivers and crew, and, of course, the cars. This was the first auto race I’ve been to, and I was not disappointed.

With perfect weather, a strong field of competitors (including the evenly matched challengers of Audi and Peugeot for LMP1 victory), and a qualifying session which smashed the record books, the race to the finish of the 11th Petit Le Mans was sure to be exciting. And exciting it was. Not only was it the longest Petit Le Mans in history, it also saw one of the closest margins of victory.

The #62 Risi Competizione Ferrari F430 GT. After a fantastic drive, drivers Mika Salo and Jaime Melo brought their bright-red Ferrari home to win the GT2 category.

The race

After ignominiously crashing his Audi R10 on the formation lap, Allan McNish was forced to start from the pit after the crew heroically repaired the damage. This put him two laps down, but with a fantastic drive, the three Audi drivers launched their car back into the lead – but only just. With night falling and the race coming to a close, the Audi was barely ten seconds ahead of the Peugeot, with the second Audi R10 only a few seconds behind in third – this after nearly ten hours of racing. In a classic race to the finish, McNish piloted his repaired Audi across the line, a mere 4.5 seconds ahead, for victory. LMP2 saw a clean sweep by the Penske Porsche RS Spyders while the GT1 Corvettes scored a one and two victory (against, alas, no competition). GT2 also saw a close battle, with Risi Competizione driving their Ferrari F430 GT to a class victory.

All in all, it was quite a race. Eleven full course cautions (a Petit Le Mans record) certainly broke up the day, though seeing so many parade laps behind the safety car did get somewhat aggravating. If you are a photographer, the slow progress under a full-course-caution probably makes getting clear shots a lot easier (one wonders how many of the best race photos were taken under the yellow flag). But, as a spectator, seeing such powerfully fast machines cowed behind a four door sedan safety car leaves something to be desired.

Several of the more spectacular accidents have been uploaded to YouTube (fortunately I didn’t see any of these since I’d much rather see a good race than a car parked in a wall). Thankfully all the drivers were fine.

• VICI Racing’s Marc Basseng losses it on turn 12, putting his Porsche 996 GT3 into the wall.
• Stefan Johansson’s Ginetta-Zytek 07S suffers a mechanical failure which sending him into the wall, also at turn 12.
• The scariest crash of the race, when a stationary Lola B07-17 Judd driven by Georges Forgeois is hit head-on by Patrick Pilet’s Porsche 997 GT3. The accident also took out the Acura ARX-01B being driven by Franck Montagny.

Robertson Racing’s Ford GT, driven by husband and wife team Andrea and David Robertson and their co-driver David Murry. Although quite quick, the car nonetheless failed to finish due to engine trouble.

Now that was loud

Despite all the cautions, the race proved plenty exciting. Having several car classes on the road at once certainly made for an interesting contrast, both between the cars and the differing strategies employed by each. Until you are a few feet away from an GT racer with a wide-open throttle, it is difficult to appreciate how fast – and how incredibly (biblically) loud – they are. Each car has a particular sound, with the Corvette V8s producing a deep throaty rumble and the Ford GTs voicing a more uneven roar at an almost unchallenged volume. The Ferrari and Porsche GTs were more even, higher pitched and somewhat (if it can be said about the astonishing volume produced by all these machines) quieter.

What was truly shocking though, is how quiet the diesel LMP1 cars were, particularly in comparison to their more traditional gas-powered brethren. Both the Audi and Peugeot had a clean and fairly high-pitched whine, more like you’d expect from a jet turbine than a massive 5.5 liter V12 racing engine. Despite their understated sound, the LMP1s were still blindingly fast.

The accessible nature of the event really added to the overall enjoyment. Not only could you stand a few feet from the pit crews for every team, you could walk around the garages while the race was going. This meant that any time there was critical mechanical trouble and the car had to be brought in for repairs, you could watch from a feet away as the mechanics rushed to restore their car.

Drayson-Barwell’s Aston Martin, followed closely by an Audi R10, after just coming off “The Esses” and up the hill to turn 5.

In the closing hours of the race, the #1 Audi R10 narrowly leads the sole Peugeot 908 HDi – and the race – through turn 5 and up Spectator Hill.

Suggestions from a (former) newbie

For those of you thinking about attending a future car race (and in particular an ALMS race), here are some suggestions:

• Bring ear protection, I cannot stress this enough. The cars (as I’ve noted) are terrifically loud and you can get quite close to the action, especially at an ALMS race. Fortunately, even very cheap earplugs will suffice. I bought mine at the track for a whopping 1 USD and they worked quite well.
• Get a radio or, better, something with good wireless internet. It is very difficult to tell where all the cars are in the race and, if you have earplugs in, you won’t hear the announcers. Ideally, radio equipped noise-reduction headphones would be best. Extra batteries are key though, particularly for an endurance race. Things are much more exciting when you know where the cars driving by actually fit into the larger race.
• Bring something to sit on, but unless you are parking very close, make sure it is light. At an ALMS race you can walk to many different parts of the track and you’ll probably want to spend a decent amount of time at each stop. A chair is more comfortable, but a blanket can be enough.
• Make sure you have some water, especially during an endurance race. Several of the food tents ran out, so I had to go with whatever soda they had left. Unless you want basic hotdogs and hamburgers, you may want to bring some food as well.

All in all, it was a fantastic race day, hopefully the first of many.

If anything, I am certainly an inveterate traveler. What began as an odd trip to this country or that, is now an often-as-possible jaunt to wherever strikes my latest fancy. The latest interest was Mexico, specifically San Miguel de Allende. A pleasant town about five hours north of Mexico City, San Miguel sits roughly 2000 meters above sea-level, giving it a cool temperate climate. The landscape is equally as agreeable, with rolling lowlands interspersed with lofty hills. Here, cattle and goats lazily graze the light scrub while cowboys watch attentively. All considered, a wonderful, but all too brief journey.

Porto

The next morning brought cold rain and an early departure for Porto, further to the north. Portugal’s second largest city and famed for its sweet Port wine, Porto stands gracefully above the northern banks of the Douro River. Arriving on the train, the first thing a visitor will notice are the towering bridges that connect Porto and its more modern neighbour Vila Nova de Gaia. One such span, the Dom Luís I Bridge, arches majestically over the river and brings to mind images of Paris’ Eiffel Tower. This is no accident; the bridge’s designer, Léopold Valentin, was one of Gustav Eiffel’s young protégés.

The lights of Ribeira glisten in the cool night air, the historic center of Porto, declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1996 (Portugal’s 8th)Parts of Porto, with boarded up buildings and scrawled graffiti, hint at the city’s hard-scrabble past as a shipping port and decades of economic despondency. Closer to the Douro River, the buildings are older and the area more well-preserved. Riberia, belying Porto’s more recent economic struggles, is an exquisite gem of august architecture, fine restaurants and majestic bridges. UNESCO certainly thought so, naming Riberia a World Heritage Site in 1996. Dining on Portugal’s superb cuisine and sweet Port wine with the Don Luis I alight in the darkness as a backdrop is truly a singular pleasure.

Lisbon, Once Again

After a short train ride from Porto, I was once again in Lisbon for the final days of my journey. Arriving into Lisbon via train is an aesthetic pleasure. Gradually you close in to the city, with its stately hills falling into the broad Tagus river-side. The train then pulls into Oriente Station, its radiant lattice-work canopy towering high above the station platform. Designed by Spanish master Santiago Calatrava, the station is further part of the 1998 World Expo complex. After a quick check-in at the hotel, I again set out onto the streets of Lisbon ready for my next discovery.

Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga

While exploring Barrio Alto, I stumbled upon one of Lisbon’s great museums, the Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga. Given the nation’s religious tradition, the crucifixion of Christ is a reoccurring theme in this museum’s bountiful collection. Through a wide variety of media, Christ is depicted in graphic detail dragging his cross, being nailed to it, suffering almightily for our sins, dying and, finally, blessedly, being removed from said cross and laid to rest in a cave, ready for his imminent resurrection. The excruciating exactitude of many of the works border on the macabre. Alas, much of the rest of the museum was closed for renovation, so Christ’s allegorical agony will be my most vivid memory of the Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga.

Belém Tower and the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos

With the nearby Mosteiro dos Jeronimos, Belem Tower tower was classified a National Monument in 1910 and a World Heritage Site in 1983Not wanting to waste time, I caught an aging Mercedes taxi that bounced along cobble-stone streets to Belém Tower. Standing guard at the mouth of the Tagus River, the alabaster tower is a sight to behold. Built in the to commemorate the expedition of Vasco de Gama and as part of the city’s defensive system, Belém Tower has since become a widely-recognized symbol of Lisbon. And rightly so, the tower’s elegant stone-work and refined form make for a striking gateway into the city while handsomely disavowing the Tower’s original militaristic intention.

A short walk from Belém Tower is Mosteiro dos Jerónimos (Jerónimos Monastery) and the Church of Santa Maria, the three together composing UNESCO’s 263rd World Heritage Site. Built by Manuel I to commemorate Vasco da Gama’s return from India, the church and monastery are true products of Portugal’s “Age of Discovery”. Replete with intricate nautical motifs and design influences from around the known world, the complex is a sight to behold.

Intended for the burial of the House of Aviz, the Church of Santa Maria instead became a house of prayer for departing Portuguese marinersMost immediate is the church, an opulent mix of Gothic and Renaissance styles and considered one of the most magnificent works of its time. Inside, cascades of light from the setting sun flood the vaulted interior, the raised crucifix casting a deep shadow across worshipers below. The warm illumination fills the nave with an unearthly radiance. It is easy to imagine adventuresome explorers receiving divine inspiration while praying before their next voyage into the unknown.

Just beyond the church is the Jerónimos Monastery, a sumptuous late-Gothic cloister built using pedra lioz, a local gold-colored limestone. Fittingly, the construction was funded with a 5% tax on the spice trade. The riches of the spice trade allowed the designers wide latitude, resulting in resplendent ornamentation throughout the majestic passageways and cloister. A recent renovation has restored the gold limestone to its original glory.

Castle of São Jorge

While darkness descends on Lisbon, as viewed from Castle Sao Jorge, the city begins to awake with the sights and sounds of celebrationsWith the daylight quickly receding, I hailed an ancient Mercedes taxi and sped across Lisbon’s narrow and jarring cobblestone streets to the Castle of São Jorge. Situated on the highest hill in the city and at the heart of historic Lisbon, the Castle of São Jorge occupies a commanding point above the capital. The castle’s towering citadel, with its narrow passages and precipitous heights, make for adventurous exploration. It is also an ideal vantage point to enjoy the shimmering threads of light that twist through the Lisbon metropolis.

With the day put to rest and another lively Lisbon night awaking, the view was a perfect coda to another fantastic journey. The following day would bring a day of lengthy flights, customs queues and the myriad of travels facing the modern traveler. Through it all, it was poetic to be returning to the new world on trails blazed by Portuguese explorers so many years before.

View Portraits of Portugal: Journeys through Lisbon, Coimbra and PortoMysterious gardens and historic monasteries, modern aquariums and majestic skylines

Perhaps it was the promise of old-world European elegance, with mysteriously hidden side-streets and quaint restaurants, or the chance to utilize my meager Brazilian Portuguese. Whatever the reason, Portugal became my second foray into Europe thus far. Between its great food, wonderfully unique scenery, storied history and quick public transport network, this gem on the Iberian peninsula did not disappoint.

Read the Portugal Travel Log: Part 1, Lisbon and Coimbra Portugal journey from Lisbon, through Coimba to Porto

As always the case, I had far less time in-country then I would have liked – a mere six days. Despite this, I had laid out an extensive itinerary: a few days in Lisbon, then train-rides north to Coimbra and Porto. The south, with its beach resorts and renown sea-food would have to wait for another trip.

Lisbon

Coimbra

Porto

Elegant residences line the streets around the Baixa Pombalina (or Pombaline Lower Town), rebuilt following the devastating 1755 earthquake

My itinerary was, perhaps, rather ambitious: three cities, one of them the metropolis of Lisbon, in a scant five days. Alas, the timing was beyond my control, so smooth traveling was subject to capricious winds of fate. Fortunately, Portugal boasts something all too lacking from my past travels: a first-world transportation system. While not France’s TGV or Japan’s Shinkansen lines, Portugal’s aptly named Comboios de Portugal (Portuguese Trains) is an easy, if leisurely, way to traverse the country without risking life and limb on the nation’s precarious roadways.

Lisbon

My first introduction to Lisbon, and indeed Portugal, came from the view from my hotel near the Parque Eduardo VII and just off the city’s main thoroughfare, Avenida da Liberdade. Stretched out before me was Lisbon’s old-city, with the Castle of São Jorge standing proudly on a crest to the right and the Tagus river arching out toward the Atlantic to the left.

Not wanting to linger in my room, I set out to Parque das Nações (Park of the Nations), a collection of museums, cultural monuments and shopping malls built for the 1998 World Expo. My ultimate destination was the Oceanário de Lisboa (Lisbon Aquarium). The center-piece of the 98 Expo, the aquarium is beautifully designed, engaging and not to be missed. A vast central tank houses a grand diversity of sea life while each corner of the building features a different aquatic habitat: from entertaining penguins to charming North American otters to striking tropical fish.

The red-hued moon ascends above Lisbon’s lower town, Pombalina

The next day was spent in blissful aimlessness as I wandered the streets of the city. Although parts Lisbon were rebuilt on a strict grid after the devastating 1755 earthquake, most of the lower town’s old streets and alleys still meander their way to the river. It is easy to get lost here. It is a pleasure to get lost here, amid the fluttering laundry and small cafés tucked into each corner. Despite the electric lights and occasional café television (always tuned to Portuguese football), little imagination is needed to feel the pulse of centuries old Lisbon. Majestic cathedrals and cloistered monasteries were among the many sights. As night descended and a full moon rose above the city, I sat above Alfama and the Tagus River and enjoyed the cool evening air.

Coimbra

The 16th century Sao Sebastiao (Saint Sebastian) aqueduct

As the cool morning dawned, I set off for Coimbra, home to the oldest university in Portugal and one of the oldest in the world. Departing from Lisbon’s striking Gare do Oriente station, I settled in for the quick ride north. Situated upon a hill, overlooking the Mondego river, old Coimbra is a warren of small steep side streets punctuated by renaissance-style cathedrals and ornate university buildings. A Romanesque aqueduct bisects the old-town. Quixotically, many of the university’s central buildings were built in the 1960’s, in an unadorned brutalist style. It is easy to see why Coimbra is called the “cidade dos estudantes” (city of the students). One can see the university’s students, in their unique dark uniforms, throughout the city. Their colourful multi-lingual graffiti scrawled on ancient walls is similarly omnipresent.

The Botanical Garden of the University of Coimbra (or simply Jardim Botanico) which was founded by the Marquis of Pombal in the 1770s

The highlight of Coimbra for me is the Jardim Botânico da Universidade de Coimbra, which date from the 18th century. Sprawling 13 hectares, the gardens are a mystical collection of wide stone-hewn paths, graceful iron gates and moss-covered fountains. This is the garden of fairy tales and children’s story books, where monsters creep and faun’s hide in the shadows.

My only night in Coimbra was spent at the Astória, a turn of the century hotel on the banks of the Mondego River. Its well-worn iron and glass-lined elevator and luxuriant smoking lounge harkened back to a long passed era. The tired décor, antique electronics and ubiquitous exposed compact fluorescents bulbs were reminders of a more modern era. While charming and worth a night for the sheer novelty, the Astória was long-past its prime. The restaurant’s food, in contrast, is not to be faulted and ranks as one of the most satisfying meals from my time in Portugal.

Read the Portugal Travel Log: Part 2, Porto and the return to Lisbon The majestic Douro river, sweet Port wine and the historic sights of Lisbon